The cleaning power of 'dirt'.

Last weekend I visited my local pharmacy looking for a clay mask to help tighten my skin. After spending almost an hour on my quest, confused by all the different ingredients in the variety of clays and very few of them with actual 'dirt' clay in them, I thought of my grandmother's ibomvu (red soil).

There are so many types of face masks available in in pharmacies/drugstores that if you don't understand your skin type or ingredients required by your skin, you are in trouble! There are even more recipes to choose from, from so many different cultures on how to make you own face masks to target your skin's needs.


A facial mask is applied after cleansing, skin analysis, exfoliation, extractions, and massage during a professional facial. Usually the process before the application of your facial mask at home is not as thorough and exactly as you would have it professionally, but ideally facial masks treat your particular skin type or condition.

For instance, if you're dry or dehydrated, the facial mask should hydrate your skin. If your skin is red or inflamed, the mask should calm and soothe. If your skin is oily and congested, the facial mask can help draw out impurities from the skin.

Your face mask should generally stay on your skin for 10-15 minutes and contain ingredients like clay, black moor mud, Aloe Vera, seaweed, algae, essential oils, massage oils, herbs and vitamins.

Today we will discuss clay facial masks, particularly the ones historically used in Africa and how they have been modernised and included in your modern day spas and beauty routines.

Clay facial masks in Africa can be dated as far as Cleopatra's time(over 1800 years ago), where it is said she used clay from the Nile river and from the Arabian desert as part of her beauty ritual.
Some of you may have seen the red and white shades of clay in African markets, on cane cutter faces, or on the faces of iZangoma (Traditional African Healers) or amaThwasa (African healers going through initiation/training).

It is said that clay has restorative properties that help purify, tighten and protect the skin depending on where the clay was taken from and what it has been mixed with.

The white clay we spoke of earlier is known as umcako (mineral lime) in the Zulu language of South Africa. This particular grey clay is known for being craved by pregnant woman and has been part of a crazy eating disorder in the kwa Zulu Natal province and apparently some parts of India. This clay is often used on the body by Sangoma initiates and has been found by many Afrocentric spas to have purifying and polishing properties that help remove impurities from the skin and leave it with a natural glow.

The red soil ibomvu was and is still used mostly by cane cutters, 'graduate' traditional healers, and African woman who work on farming fields to protect their skin from the sun. This particular clay is found in areas of very low altitude such as on the banks of rivers and in valleys. It is believed to be rich in minerals and has skin lightening properties.

To prepare this clay for a facial mask, depending on the state you receive it in, you can crush it into a bowel, add luke warm water and stir it into a paste. Using your fingers, gently apply it to your face and neck avoiding the eye area. It is recommended that you leave it on your face for 10-15 minutes.
If you are using to protect your skin from the sun, make the paste very runny and try to avoid having the paste heavy on your face.

 

I must say, having tried these clays myself it really depends on your skin type and needs. I have normal combination skin, I sometimes get oily on my T-zone and dry on other parts of my skin. Also very dependent on the climate, for instance: when I'm in the very humid city of Durban, I get quiet moisturised skin and ibomvu does wonders for my skin because my skin will have enough moisture to cope with the clay extracting impurities from my skin. But when I am in Johannesburg which is a little arid, my skin tends to really dry up to the point of 'ashiness'. I wouldn't recommend it to someone who has dry skin, as it really pulls at your skin when the water used to dilute has evaporated. I would suggest diluting it very well with water to create a very runny paste for dry skin if you are using it for skin tightening or purifying. Ideally, umcako would be a better option.

Raw and very natural, wouldn't cost you a dime if you picked it yourself, and very affordable in African Markets. The last time I bought these was when I went to visit my grandmother, it cost me about 20 ZAR each (just over an American Dollar). Modern African spars cost you Hundreds of Rands on something that we pass on the streets regularly, just not packaged 'exclusively' enough.

I would love to hear about your treatment rituals and where they come from and how they have or can be modernised.

Remember, it isn't beautiful without you!
XOXOXO